French Vineyards Turn to Nature

Production methods dating back centuries are being re-discovered as French vineyards reject chemicals, preferring to let nature and local wildlife control pests and encourage growth of quality grapes.

Some growers have even turned to an age-old belief in timing production with phases of the moon. Said Maurice Carroll of winedrive.com: "Of almost 400 smaller producers researched for our lists, we were surprised by the numbers rejecting herbicides, pesticides and other artificial aids in favour of bio dynamics. We found a third of vineyards using traditional, natural production methods."

Typical is Hubert Laferrère, whose vineyard is one of the few near the village of Chardonnay in Burgundy still surrounded by hedgerows. Encouraging wildlife and birds to keep down caterpillars and other pests, he describes his approach as, ‘enabling nature to bring out the very best in the soil’.

Florence Dufour produces award wining Anjou wines from her vineyards near Angers in the Loire using only non-toxic and totally biodegradable products, while Patrick Vadé from Saumur, has planted grass between his vines. "It eliminates ploughing and the use of herbicides and pesticides. The additional micro organisms contribute efficiently to fight against outbreaks of diseases," he said. Other vineyards are joining organisations such as Terra-Vitis (living earth) whose members must use approved growing methods and respect the environment. 

According to Celine Cresson of BioBourgogne in Auxerre, Burgundy, the move back to nature follows several industry initiatives since the late nineties. "Consumers and producers are more aware of the amount of chemicals used in agriculture. As a result, our producers are no longer dependant on chemicals and use nature itself to enhance quality. This helps satisfy consumer demand and benefits the producer by limiting production, resulting in a better market price."

Use of additives is also declining in wine production as producers turn to alternatives such as mechanical filtration to remove impurities. Added Mr Carroll: "In the past, chemicals have been seen as a short cut to satisfying demand for high production volume with consistent quality. Today, the smaller vineyards favour bio dynamics, their wines following centuries old traditions of style with quality of vintage dependent on soil, climate and skill rather than artificial aids.

However, the move to nature does not necessarily mean the wines are organic. "Buyers looking for truly organic wines should question the producer in some detail. There are several bodies dedicated to organic farming in France, so definitions and specifications can vary."

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